A Visit to the Yarra Falls. 1909
By F..G. A. BARNARD.
To many the whereabouts of the
Yarra Falls is almost as great an
enigma as tle North Pole. They are
said to exist at the sources of the
Yarra, but what direction to take or
how to get there is known to very few.
Consequently a few notes from one
who was fortunate enough to be one of
a party of tourists, who starting out
from Kew with the hope of reaching
the much talked of Yarra Falls,
succeeded in doing so may be of service
to others who think of venturing into
that almost untrodden part of Victoria.
On looking at a map of Victoria it
will be noticed that the County of
Evelyn runs to a point towards the
south-east. Now almost in the extrem
ity of this point are situated the Yarra
Falls. So far for locality; now, how to
get there. Train to Warburton, coach
to Yarra bridge, and thence horseback
is certainly the most expeditious, but
we decided to be independent of every
body and so loaded a two-horse van
with our camping equipment, provi
sions, etc., and took to the road.
Leaving Kew about 8 a m. on a
Wednesday morning, we bowled mer
rily along, two of the party riding
bicycles, through Box Hill, Mitcham,
Ringwood, etc., admiring the many
views of distant mountains obtainable
from the White Horse road, until
about midday we reached a favorite
camping ground, the ti-tree sheltered
banks of Brushy Creek. Here we had
our first meal in the open, and gave
the horses a welcome rest. Two hours
passed quickly by, and we were once
more on the road. The steep hill at
the Black Springs caused us to slacken
our pace a bit, but only to give us
more time to admire the surrounding
country. As we passed through Lily
dale the weekly half-holiday was being
observed, so we had the Main street
almost to onrselves. Here a pleasant
word or two was passed with an old
friend, the postmaster, and we were
wished good luck on our journey.
About two miles further the Warbur
ton road was taken, and found to be
in fair order. Everywhere were signs
of the prevailing industry of the dis
trict-fruitgrowing-and as we ap
proached Wandin station and the
adjacent jam factory the pleasant
odour of raspberries- filled the air.
Our road led us up-hill and down dale
through Seville, past the entrance to
the Killara Estate, until the shades of
evening told us it was time to think
about a camping place for the night.
The Woori Yallock Creek was close at
hand, and having done some 30 miles
for the day, we pulled up on the side of
the road and soon had a fire lighted
and the billy boiling. Our tents were
barely fixed before the twilight de
parted, and then we devoted our atten
tion to attempts to secure a few black
fish for our next morning's meal, but
the result was not equal to the efforts
made.
The night passed slowly as most first
nights in camp do, and we were up
next morning- With the first sounds of
the magpies and the jackasses. Break
fast despatched and our van repacked,
we got under way and were soon
climbing the hill past the Woori Yal
lock hotel and store, looking just the
same as it did when I passed it in the
old coaching days twenty years before.
The roads were showing signs of wear,
and it was not long before we were in
trouble, and had to put our shoulders
to the wheel in real earnest. However,
a friendly teamster came to our assist
ance, and with the aid of his horse
pulled us out of our first difficulty, and
ere long IIoddle's Creek was crossed,
and the singularly named hamlet of
Launching Place came in view.
Here the road, railway and river
make a very picturesque combination,
and crossing the bridge we pulled up
under the shade of some trees for our
midday lunch. This was our first
acquaintance with the Yarra, and for
the next fifty miles we were never
many yards from its crystal waters.
After lunch a start was made for
Warburton, but the bad and dusty
road through Yarra Junction warned
us that we must have more horse
power if we desired to get to our
destination, and so much time was
spent in hiring horses and buying a
few necessary articles we found mis
sing in our equipment, that we deter
mined to make the Little Yarra bridge
our camping place for the night, having
done only eight miles for the day, a
great falling off.
The day had been warm, but not
unpleasant, and as the sun departed
the Warburton hills were tinted with
a pale purple glow that in a picture
would have been called unnatural. A
few blackfish were tempted from their
native stream by the efforts of our
fishermen, and an additional member
of our party arrived by the evening
train.
Early next morning the fresh horses
arrived and we set off in great spirits
through West Warburton, past Mill
grove, where the extent of the timber
traffic was to us quite a surprise.
Passing along the picturesque bit of
road between tha railway and river
towards Warburton the dust was
found to be terrible and quite
destroyed the pleasure of the many
beautiful glimpses of the river rush
ing by. Sluicing on Scotchman's
Creek was evidently not in progress,
for the stream was clear as crystal as
it gurgled over the stones to join the
Yarra close by.
Warburton (5 mile) was left about
10.30 a.m., after adding to our stores;
the great mass of Donnabuang (4080
feet), the monarch of the Yarra mountains,
showing signs of the timber
getters' labors, and the Adventist
Settlement near Wonwondah bridge
soon left behind. A steep hill with
trickling streams had to be negotiated,
and then pleasantly situated "Sunny
dale" came in sight. Just along the
river bank, at a gushing stream, we
decided to halt and boil the billy
Our horses wanted a spell, and we
were glad of the opportunity of wash
ing the Warburton dust off our faces.
Two hours were pleasantly spent
here and then we were once more on
our way. Big Pat's Creek, with its
tributary, the Mississippi, was passed,
also the lonely East Warburton school.
Settlement now began to get sparser;
our road passed through much un
conquered bush. Heading round gullies
and crossing creeks, here and there
tree ferns appeared, and finally, after
about 13 miles' travelling, we reached
Starvation Creek, and though the name
was somewhat ominous, decided to
camp for the night.
The creek, a fine stream fringed
with ferns, afforded great opportunities
for bathing and fishing, which were
soon availed of, and a passing traveller,
giving us some information about the
road for the morrow, made us hopefuL
of finishing our drive that day.
During the evening two teamsters,
with loads of palings drawn by
bullocks, arrived, and in the morning
considerable interest was created in
watching the methods of yoking up
the beasts.
Saturday morning broke fine and
fair, and a couple of hours' drive
brought us to Mahon's Creek, 61
miles from town, the last store and
post office up the Yarra. On this stage
we had passed over the so-called
"peninsula," and had had some pretty
glimpses of the Yarra as we.wound
along its banks. The store was our
last chance of replenishing supplies,
and was made the most of. Another
hour's drive took us to Reefton, now
almost deserted, once a busy mining
village. At a pretty bend of the river
we pulled up for lunch. A bridge
crosses the Yarra here, and a track
leads up to the Yarra Track, or
Marysville to Woodspoint road, some
12 miles distant. Around us were a
number of the prickly box, in full
flower, and full of insects of various
kinds seeking for honey among the
blossoms. As we were finishing lunch,
a couple of cyclists came along and an
offer of tea induced them to stop for a
while, when it was found that they
also were making for the Falls, so they
were persuaded to join our party.
Just as were starting again a snake in
cautiously put in an appearance, and
was promptly despatched.
We had now a five-mile drive before
reaching our destination for the night,
but it took us some time, as the road,
though not hilly, was very rutty, and
required careful driving. The country
was very poor, the trees consequently
being of only moderate size, while the
native heath, pink and white, was still
in bloom. At length, about 5 p.m.,
we crossed the Yarra Bridge and
pulled up at M'Veigh's Upper Yarra
Hotel, the sole building of the district.
The river here was a rushing, shallow
stream some 30ft. wide. We made
our camp a few yards up the Woods
point-road on the side of Walshe's
Creek, some 66 miles from town.
Enquiries were now made as to our
chances of getting' to the Falls, still
some 18 miles distant, and we were
told that trees were down across the
track, and there was little hope of
getting through with horses. However,
we were not to be put off, and next
morning (Sunday), after several delays,
we got away at 10.30 on the track to
Contention Creek, which winds along
the southern side of the Yarra, some
times almost at the water's edge and at
other times rising to several hundred
feet as it rounds a jutting spur. This
part of the journey was done on foot,
with our horses carrying packs. Pretty
glimpses of the river with its fringing
of trees and shrubs were everywhere
obtainable. We soon got over the
three miles to Alderman's Creek,
where another track branches off to the
southeast over the ranges to Neerim, in
Gippsland, but our route was to follow
the Yarra. Fern scenes become fre
quent, some showing signs of last
season's bush fires. At about 8 miles
we reached Contention Greek, now the
scene of the workings of Bromley's reef,
a mine which at present is attracting
some attention.
A halt was called for lunch and a
little time devoted to an inspection of
the water wheel, battery, &c. But we
had still a long way to go, and bidding
the miners goodbye we plunged into
the uninhabited country beyond, hop
ing to get to Falls Creek, eight miles
further, that evening, but we were
disappointed; the track is often blocked
by fallen trees, and this day was no
exception.
After heading numerous beautiful
fern gullies we came to a fine stream
irushing down from Mount Horsfall,
and saw the first myrtles, or more
properly beeches. Perhaps half-a-mile
further a fallen tree blocked the track,
necessitating so much delay in cutting
it through that we decided to camp at
a creek close by for the night. And
a memorable camp it was, for in the
night one of the horses rolled into the
creek, and, with great difficulty
by the aid of candle light, rescued and
got on its feet again, and next morn
ing it had to be got up out to the
track again.
We still had some three miles to go to
reach the junction of Falls Creek and
the Yarra, and had barely made a start
when the advance party reported another
tree down across the track, in such a
position as to render the passage of the
horses impossible. There was nothing for
it but to unpack everything, take on suffi
clent provisions for the day, and leave one
of the party in charge of the horses and
camp equipment. About an hour later we
reached the junction just at the level of
the river and about 1000 feet above sea
level. Here we found the initials of
previous visitors cut in a fine sassafras tree,
thus making us certain of our position.
Leaving some of our baggage here, we
started up the steep spur on the other side
of the creek so as to get to the head of the
falls. The track was very steep and
indistinct, but after half an hour's hard
work we were rewarded by seeing and
hearing the Falls Creek dashing down into
a rocky gorge on our right on its way to
join the Yarra. Finally the top of the
spur was reached at nearly 3000
feet above sea level; further on
the track led to the Thompson River
and Mt. Baw Baw. A detour to the right
brought us to the topmost fall, and a
pretty sight it was as the water came dash
ing down some fifty feet of sloping rock.
Our photographers were soon at work
and venturing down further into the
gorge secured pictures of some of the
other leaps. Time would not permit a
full exploration of the gorge, which is a
mile or so long, the falls in six or seven
leaps being about 750 ft. from top to
bottom. On the spur we were about
2750 ft. above sea level, but, owing to the
timber, could not get an extensive view.
The Falls Creek was at one time thought
to be the main source of the Yarra, hence
the name Yarra Falls, but is now regarded
as perhaps its largest tributary near the
source. It starts in a high plateau on the
northern aide of Mt. Baw Baw, and, as we
saw it, is a fine stream, some eight or ten
feet wide and a foot deep.
Who first saw these falls I have not
been able to ascertain, but they were
visited by Prof. Kernet in the eighties,
and a small party from the Field Natural
ists Club reached them via Marysville and
the Yarra Track in November, 1801, and
secured perhaps the first photographs
taken. Since that time few tourists seem
to have visited them until Mr. A. J. Camp
bell, the well-known ornithologist, spent
a week there with some friends in Decem
ber, 1904, and took an extensive series ef
views. The first ladies to see the
the falls had only been there this Christ
mas, while our party of ten claims the
record of being the largest party which
has yet attempted the trip. The spot
will probably be a difficult one to get at
for many years to come owing to its
distance from main roads, but should the
Warburton railway be extended to Yarra
Bridge, as is fondly hoped, and a narrow
guage line run over the divide to Woods
point, then the Falls can be approached
along the divide through much better
scenery than by the track along theYarra
Valley. At any rate the Lands depart
ment is now about to improve the present
track, and join it to the track to Mt. Baw
Baw from Neerim so that visitors can
make the round trip if so desired, Baw
Baw itself being worth visiting owing to
its elevation and striking difference to the
surrounding country. After lunch close
by the foaming cataract, we retraced our
steps, some by the way we had come,
others descended still further into the
gorge, and picked up the track lower
down, and by four o'clock were once more
at the junction.
Eight miles lay between us and Brom
ley's Reef, where we intended to camp
for the night, as there was no feed for the
horses at any other part, so no time was
lost in getting back to the horses and
packing up for the final stage. Bromley's
Reef was reached in time to allow us to
put up the tents by daylight, and the
miners very hospitably added to the
resources of our larder which had become
somewhat depleted during the trip.
Next morning (Tuesday) the manager
of the mine showed the party the under
ground workings before leaving for Yarra
Bridge. Three of the party elected to
climb the steep spur on the opposite aide
of the river, down which the machinery
for the mine had been lowered, and in
two miles reached the Woodspoint road
about 10 miles from M'Veigh'a, and re
turned by it to the camp. They were
loud in their praises of the fine views
obtained from this road, and, though the
climb of about 2,500 ft was rather stiff,
considered they were amply repaid by the
grand outlook over mountain, valley and
creek obtainable in every direction. The
afternoon was spent in fishing and pre
paring for the return journey towards
Warburton on the morrow.
Wednesday afternoon saw us once more
on the road, and, bidding good-bye to the
McVeighs, who had been extremely kind
to us, we soon left the peaceful locality of
Yarra Bridge. A short halt was again
made at Reefton, also at McMahon's
Creek, and our former camp at Starvation
Creek was reached in time for a late lunch.
Getting under way again we reached Big
Pat's Creek, about 16 miles, at sunset, and ..
in the midst of some thick ti-tree pitched
our camp for the night.
Laaving early in the morning,Warburton
was soon reached. Here letters and
telegrams awaited some of the party,
determining some to return by rail,
but as there was no train till the afternoon
we kept together until reaching another
former camp at the Little Yarra Bridge,
where, after lunch, some of us bade good
bye for the present to our companions of
the past week, and returned by train from
Yarra Junction. The others decided to
spend a day or two longer In the Cockatoo
Creek district and try and improve their
fishing records.
Taken as a whole the outing was a most
interesting one, and though there were
certain discomforts in the way of dusty
roads, still afterall that is better than rain,
of which we had none during the nine days
we were travelling. However, for prefer,
ence I would advise visitors to make the
trip in November, for then, though the
roads may be a bit soft, the bush would be
gay with wild flowers, and present a better
appearance than it does in January. The
scenery does not equal that of the Black
Spur and Yarra'Track, still there are many
beatiful bits of the Yarra as it rushes
merrily along between high ranges
clothed with trees to the water's edge.
Large trees are fairly numerous, and
some of the fern scenes passed would be
hard to beat, while everywhere there is
an abundance of running streams of
beautiful water at the service of the
traveller or his horses. On a first visit to
such a district one is naturally anxious
about his travelling capabilities, and
whether he is following the right track,
so that a second trip with more time at
ones disposal would probably reveal many
picturesque parts unnoticed on the present
journey.
By F..G. A. BARNARD.
To many the whereabouts of the
Yarra Falls is almost as great an
enigma as tle North Pole. They are
said to exist at the sources of the
Yarra, but what direction to take or
how to get there is known to very few.
Consequently a few notes from one
who was fortunate enough to be one of
a party of tourists, who starting out
from Kew with the hope of reaching
the much talked of Yarra Falls,
succeeded in doing so may be of service
to others who think of venturing into
that almost untrodden part of Victoria.
On looking at a map of Victoria it
will be noticed that the County of
Evelyn runs to a point towards the
south-east. Now almost in the extrem
ity of this point are situated the Yarra
Falls. So far for locality; now, how to
get there. Train to Warburton, coach
to Yarra bridge, and thence horseback
is certainly the most expeditious, but
we decided to be independent of every
body and so loaded a two-horse van
with our camping equipment, provi
sions, etc., and took to the road.
Leaving Kew about 8 a m. on a
Wednesday morning, we bowled mer
rily along, two of the party riding
bicycles, through Box Hill, Mitcham,
Ringwood, etc., admiring the many
views of distant mountains obtainable
from the White Horse road, until
about midday we reached a favorite
camping ground, the ti-tree sheltered
banks of Brushy Creek. Here we had
our first meal in the open, and gave
the horses a welcome rest. Two hours
passed quickly by, and we were once
more on the road. The steep hill at
the Black Springs caused us to slacken
our pace a bit, but only to give us
more time to admire the surrounding
country. As we passed through Lily
dale the weekly half-holiday was being
observed, so we had the Main street
almost to onrselves. Here a pleasant
word or two was passed with an old
friend, the postmaster, and we were
wished good luck on our journey.
About two miles further the Warbur
ton road was taken, and found to be
in fair order. Everywhere were signs
of the prevailing industry of the dis
trict-fruitgrowing-and as we ap
proached Wandin station and the
adjacent jam factory the pleasant
odour of raspberries- filled the air.
Our road led us up-hill and down dale
through Seville, past the entrance to
the Killara Estate, until the shades of
evening told us it was time to think
about a camping place for the night.
The Woori Yallock Creek was close at
hand, and having done some 30 miles
for the day, we pulled up on the side of
the road and soon had a fire lighted
and the billy boiling. Our tents were
barely fixed before the twilight de
parted, and then we devoted our atten
tion to attempts to secure a few black
fish for our next morning's meal, but
the result was not equal to the efforts
made.
The night passed slowly as most first
nights in camp do, and we were up
next morning- With the first sounds of
the magpies and the jackasses. Break
fast despatched and our van repacked,
we got under way and were soon
climbing the hill past the Woori Yal
lock hotel and store, looking just the
same as it did when I passed it in the
old coaching days twenty years before.
The roads were showing signs of wear,
and it was not long before we were in
trouble, and had to put our shoulders
to the wheel in real earnest. However,
a friendly teamster came to our assist
ance, and with the aid of his horse
pulled us out of our first difficulty, and
ere long IIoddle's Creek was crossed,
and the singularly named hamlet of
Launching Place came in view.
Here the road, railway and river
make a very picturesque combination,
and crossing the bridge we pulled up
under the shade of some trees for our
midday lunch. This was our first
acquaintance with the Yarra, and for
the next fifty miles we were never
many yards from its crystal waters.
After lunch a start was made for
Warburton, but the bad and dusty
road through Yarra Junction warned
us that we must have more horse
power if we desired to get to our
destination, and so much time was
spent in hiring horses and buying a
few necessary articles we found mis
sing in our equipment, that we deter
mined to make the Little Yarra bridge
our camping place for the night, having
done only eight miles for the day, a
great falling off.
The day had been warm, but not
unpleasant, and as the sun departed
the Warburton hills were tinted with
a pale purple glow that in a picture
would have been called unnatural. A
few blackfish were tempted from their
native stream by the efforts of our
fishermen, and an additional member
of our party arrived by the evening
train.
Early next morning the fresh horses
arrived and we set off in great spirits
through West Warburton, past Mill
grove, where the extent of the timber
traffic was to us quite a surprise.
Passing along the picturesque bit of
road between tha railway and river
towards Warburton the dust was
found to be terrible and quite
destroyed the pleasure of the many
beautiful glimpses of the river rush
ing by. Sluicing on Scotchman's
Creek was evidently not in progress,
for the stream was clear as crystal as
it gurgled over the stones to join the
Yarra close by.
Warburton (5 mile) was left about
10.30 a.m., after adding to our stores;
the great mass of Donnabuang (4080
feet), the monarch of the Yarra mountains,
showing signs of the timber
getters' labors, and the Adventist
Settlement near Wonwondah bridge
soon left behind. A steep hill with
trickling streams had to be negotiated,
and then pleasantly situated "Sunny
dale" came in sight. Just along the
river bank, at a gushing stream, we
decided to halt and boil the billy
Our horses wanted a spell, and we
were glad of the opportunity of wash
ing the Warburton dust off our faces.
Two hours were pleasantly spent
here and then we were once more on
our way. Big Pat's Creek, with its
tributary, the Mississippi, was passed,
also the lonely East Warburton school.
Settlement now began to get sparser;
our road passed through much un
conquered bush. Heading round gullies
and crossing creeks, here and there
tree ferns appeared, and finally, after
about 13 miles' travelling, we reached
Starvation Creek, and though the name
was somewhat ominous, decided to
camp for the night.
The creek, a fine stream fringed
with ferns, afforded great opportunities
for bathing and fishing, which were
soon availed of, and a passing traveller,
giving us some information about the
road for the morrow, made us hopefuL
of finishing our drive that day.
During the evening two teamsters,
with loads of palings drawn by
bullocks, arrived, and in the morning
considerable interest was created in
watching the methods of yoking up
the beasts.
Saturday morning broke fine and
fair, and a couple of hours' drive
brought us to Mahon's Creek, 61
miles from town, the last store and
post office up the Yarra. On this stage
we had passed over the so-called
"peninsula," and had had some pretty
glimpses of the Yarra as we.wound
along its banks. The store was our
last chance of replenishing supplies,
and was made the most of. Another
hour's drive took us to Reefton, now
almost deserted, once a busy mining
village. At a pretty bend of the river
we pulled up for lunch. A bridge
crosses the Yarra here, and a track
leads up to the Yarra Track, or
Marysville to Woodspoint road, some
12 miles distant. Around us were a
number of the prickly box, in full
flower, and full of insects of various
kinds seeking for honey among the
blossoms. As we were finishing lunch,
a couple of cyclists came along and an
offer of tea induced them to stop for a
while, when it was found that they
also were making for the Falls, so they
were persuaded to join our party.
Just as were starting again a snake in
cautiously put in an appearance, and
was promptly despatched.
We had now a five-mile drive before
reaching our destination for the night,
but it took us some time, as the road,
though not hilly, was very rutty, and
required careful driving. The country
was very poor, the trees consequently
being of only moderate size, while the
native heath, pink and white, was still
in bloom. At length, about 5 p.m.,
we crossed the Yarra Bridge and
pulled up at M'Veigh's Upper Yarra
Hotel, the sole building of the district.
The river here was a rushing, shallow
stream some 30ft. wide. We made
our camp a few yards up the Woods
point-road on the side of Walshe's
Creek, some 66 miles from town.
Enquiries were now made as to our
chances of getting' to the Falls, still
some 18 miles distant, and we were
told that trees were down across the
track, and there was little hope of
getting through with horses. However,
we were not to be put off, and next
morning (Sunday), after several delays,
we got away at 10.30 on the track to
Contention Creek, which winds along
the southern side of the Yarra, some
times almost at the water's edge and at
other times rising to several hundred
feet as it rounds a jutting spur. This
part of the journey was done on foot,
with our horses carrying packs. Pretty
glimpses of the river with its fringing
of trees and shrubs were everywhere
obtainable. We soon got over the
three miles to Alderman's Creek,
where another track branches off to the
southeast over the ranges to Neerim, in
Gippsland, but our route was to follow
the Yarra. Fern scenes become fre
quent, some showing signs of last
season's bush fires. At about 8 miles
we reached Contention Greek, now the
scene of the workings of Bromley's reef,
a mine which at present is attracting
some attention.
A halt was called for lunch and a
little time devoted to an inspection of
the water wheel, battery, &c. But we
had still a long way to go, and bidding
the miners goodbye we plunged into
the uninhabited country beyond, hop
ing to get to Falls Creek, eight miles
further, that evening, but we were
disappointed; the track is often blocked
by fallen trees, and this day was no
exception.
After heading numerous beautiful
fern gullies we came to a fine stream
irushing down from Mount Horsfall,
and saw the first myrtles, or more
properly beeches. Perhaps half-a-mile
further a fallen tree blocked the track,
necessitating so much delay in cutting
it through that we decided to camp at
a creek close by for the night. And
a memorable camp it was, for in the
night one of the horses rolled into the
creek, and, with great difficulty
by the aid of candle light, rescued and
got on its feet again, and next morn
ing it had to be got up out to the
track again.
We still had some three miles to go to
reach the junction of Falls Creek and
the Yarra, and had barely made a start
when the advance party reported another
tree down across the track, in such a
position as to render the passage of the
horses impossible. There was nothing for
it but to unpack everything, take on suffi
clent provisions for the day, and leave one
of the party in charge of the horses and
camp equipment. About an hour later we
reached the junction just at the level of
the river and about 1000 feet above sea
level. Here we found the initials of
previous visitors cut in a fine sassafras tree,
thus making us certain of our position.
Leaving some of our baggage here, we
started up the steep spur on the other side
of the creek so as to get to the head of the
falls. The track was very steep and
indistinct, but after half an hour's hard
work we were rewarded by seeing and
hearing the Falls Creek dashing down into
a rocky gorge on our right on its way to
join the Yarra. Finally the top of the
spur was reached at nearly 3000
feet above sea level; further on
the track led to the Thompson River
and Mt. Baw Baw. A detour to the right
brought us to the topmost fall, and a
pretty sight it was as the water came dash
ing down some fifty feet of sloping rock.
Our photographers were soon at work
and venturing down further into the
gorge secured pictures of some of the
other leaps. Time would not permit a
full exploration of the gorge, which is a
mile or so long, the falls in six or seven
leaps being about 750 ft. from top to
bottom. On the spur we were about
2750 ft. above sea level, but, owing to the
timber, could not get an extensive view.
The Falls Creek was at one time thought
to be the main source of the Yarra, hence
the name Yarra Falls, but is now regarded
as perhaps its largest tributary near the
source. It starts in a high plateau on the
northern aide of Mt. Baw Baw, and, as we
saw it, is a fine stream, some eight or ten
feet wide and a foot deep.
Who first saw these falls I have not
been able to ascertain, but they were
visited by Prof. Kernet in the eighties,
and a small party from the Field Natural
ists Club reached them via Marysville and
the Yarra Track in November, 1801, and
secured perhaps the first photographs
taken. Since that time few tourists seem
to have visited them until Mr. A. J. Camp
bell, the well-known ornithologist, spent
a week there with some friends in Decem
ber, 1904, and took an extensive series ef
views. The first ladies to see the
the falls had only been there this Christ
mas, while our party of ten claims the
record of being the largest party which
has yet attempted the trip. The spot
will probably be a difficult one to get at
for many years to come owing to its
distance from main roads, but should the
Warburton railway be extended to Yarra
Bridge, as is fondly hoped, and a narrow
guage line run over the divide to Woods
point, then the Falls can be approached
along the divide through much better
scenery than by the track along theYarra
Valley. At any rate the Lands depart
ment is now about to improve the present
track, and join it to the track to Mt. Baw
Baw from Neerim so that visitors can
make the round trip if so desired, Baw
Baw itself being worth visiting owing to
its elevation and striking difference to the
surrounding country. After lunch close
by the foaming cataract, we retraced our
steps, some by the way we had come,
others descended still further into the
gorge, and picked up the track lower
down, and by four o'clock were once more
at the junction.
Eight miles lay between us and Brom
ley's Reef, where we intended to camp
for the night, as there was no feed for the
horses at any other part, so no time was
lost in getting back to the horses and
packing up for the final stage. Bromley's
Reef was reached in time to allow us to
put up the tents by daylight, and the
miners very hospitably added to the
resources of our larder which had become
somewhat depleted during the trip.
Next morning (Tuesday) the manager
of the mine showed the party the under
ground workings before leaving for Yarra
Bridge. Three of the party elected to
climb the steep spur on the opposite aide
of the river, down which the machinery
for the mine had been lowered, and in
two miles reached the Woodspoint road
about 10 miles from M'Veigh'a, and re
turned by it to the camp. They were
loud in their praises of the fine views
obtained from this road, and, though the
climb of about 2,500 ft was rather stiff,
considered they were amply repaid by the
grand outlook over mountain, valley and
creek obtainable in every direction. The
afternoon was spent in fishing and pre
paring for the return journey towards
Warburton on the morrow.
Wednesday afternoon saw us once more
on the road, and, bidding good-bye to the
McVeighs, who had been extremely kind
to us, we soon left the peaceful locality of
Yarra Bridge. A short halt was again
made at Reefton, also at McMahon's
Creek, and our former camp at Starvation
Creek was reached in time for a late lunch.
Getting under way again we reached Big
Pat's Creek, about 16 miles, at sunset, and ..
in the midst of some thick ti-tree pitched
our camp for the night.
Laaving early in the morning,Warburton
was soon reached. Here letters and
telegrams awaited some of the party,
determining some to return by rail,
but as there was no train till the afternoon
we kept together until reaching another
former camp at the Little Yarra Bridge,
where, after lunch, some of us bade good
bye for the present to our companions of
the past week, and returned by train from
Yarra Junction. The others decided to
spend a day or two longer In the Cockatoo
Creek district and try and improve their
fishing records.
Taken as a whole the outing was a most
interesting one, and though there were
certain discomforts in the way of dusty
roads, still afterall that is better than rain,
of which we had none during the nine days
we were travelling. However, for prefer,
ence I would advise visitors to make the
trip in November, for then, though the
roads may be a bit soft, the bush would be
gay with wild flowers, and present a better
appearance than it does in January. The
scenery does not equal that of the Black
Spur and Yarra'Track, still there are many
beatiful bits of the Yarra as it rushes
merrily along between high ranges
clothed with trees to the water's edge.
Large trees are fairly numerous, and
some of the fern scenes passed would be
hard to beat, while everywhere there is
an abundance of running streams of
beautiful water at the service of the
traveller or his horses. On a first visit to
such a district one is naturally anxious
about his travelling capabilities, and
whether he is following the right track,
so that a second trip with more time at
ones disposal would probably reveal many
picturesque parts unnoticed on the present
journey.
THE FAR UPPER YARRA.
By A. J. CAMPBELL.
REMARKABLE FALLS.
Except to a few surveyors, occasional prospectors, tourists, or opossum-hunters, the region of the Upper Yarra is un-known. Hoddle surveyed the locality in 1843, and in 1890 the Mining department cut a track from Walsh's Creek along the river to Mount Baw Baw. Possibly that is all that has been done officially.
For years I had desired to ascend to the fountain-head of the Yarra, and the chance came recently, when a party of four, con-sisting of a surveyor, a Gippsland bushman, a field naturalist, and a photographer, undertook the trip.
The junction of Walsh Creek with the Yarra, 67 miles from town, is easily reached by rail and coach in one day. We put up at McVeigh's Upper Yarra Hotel, on the direct road to Wood's Point, wher it com mands a view of a fine flat in the fork of the two streams, at an elevation of 1,000 ft.
above sea level.
At 7 a.m. next day we leave McVeigh's, with an addition of two to our party- a pack-horse and his owner. We need the horse to carry a tent and provisions for a week, and the own to look after it. The track leads along the South side of the river, and is high enough to enable us to look down on the stream, bordered with fine ferns, and running swiftly over a rocky bed. Heavily timbered ranges rise from the opposite side. On our side, on a narrow flat, are some whitegums, 200ft., by actual measurement, in height. At half-past 9, several miles from Walsh Creek we reach Contention Creek. Why so-called we could not ascertain. We
unpack our camera to photograph "the highest habitation on the Yarra." There is a gold-mining claim, yielding payable gold.
The occupant of the hut welcomes us with bush hospitality, and the billy is soon on the fire.
After an hours spell, we dive in single
file into the forest. At first the way,al-though overgrown, is tolerably good, but
when we descend into the gullies, and get enveloped in thick scrub, we find the go-ing difficult. Our packhorse, save when bumping his load against a tree, or when grunting loudly on the steep pinches, be-haves splendidly, and mile by mile we move along the mountain sidelings, while the river is heard below, though lost to sight
in thickets. Not only are we getting smothered in timber, but the mountains appear to be converging. On the opposite
side ocasionally a valley densely timbered,
opens, denoting that some tributory comes down to join the main stream. It is re-
freshing to descend, when we get a little warm, into the beds of rivulets, to rest under ferns, protected by groves of sassafras and beech. We slowly but
surely forge our way along through the forest, enlivened by the voices of a few birds-lyre birds, cockatoos, and parrots.
Three snakes are seen but only one is de spatched. We sight a blazed tree on a
steep sideling. "Ah", says the pack horse owner, "this must be where the last party lost their packhorse. They said they blazed the place." We shudder when we gaze down and wonder what we should do should our horse topple over with tent and tucker, and disappear among the vegeta-tion far below. Our experience came on the return journey, when our horse fell twice, and nearly rolled into the river.
Abut 4 o'clock, when getting weary, we break suddenly upon a spledid stream. It is Falls Creek, where we pitch our camp. We endulge in mutual congratula
tions over our safe arrival.
A circular flat is selected for the camp-a most charming and picturesque spot, encl osed by tree ferns, presided over by stout
stemmed beeches. Between tent and stream is just space for a table and a fire-place. Ferny beds are made, and we feel exceedingly happy and snug when enjoying our evening meal. High ranges, clothed with vegetation, wall us in completely. The world is shut out, and we are alone, with the silence broken only by the sound of the running waters, and the rustling of the leaves when they are stirred by wander
ing airs.
The business of next day is to explore
the creek from it's junction with the Yarra to the top of the falls. Where the junc tion occcurs, a hundred yards below our camp, the Yarra comes in seven
paces wide, from the eastward, and the Falls Creek, with one third less volume, from the southeast. Crystalline waters meet on a shingly bed, ferns lending charm to the scene, and we get a lovely picture
for the camera. The height above sea level is approximately 1,770ft. Keeping to the
rocky bed of the stream, which is choked with logs, we gradually ascend. We arrive at a pretty vista, opened up by the fall of trees which have cleared an opening along
the creek bed. On our left is a wall of ve
getation, chiefly beech, gilded on top with sunshine. At 11 a.m., after rounding a bend, and brushing aside overhanging fronds, we catch a sight of the lowest fall. The water descends in a leap of about 70ft.
and spray from it is wafted upon us like
"scotch mist". It needs no small effort
on our part to climb over friable earth and large flat stones to the head of the fall.
Shortly afterwards we catch sight of a second fall. Before we attempt to renew the climbing process we sit down in full view of an interesting scene to lunch.
When again on the move upwards, we find the climbing harder work than ever. It may even be said to be dangerous. As soon as the second fall is conquered, a third
appears, and beyond it a fourth. Perspir ing freely, we climb on, laying hold of rocks, tree stems, and tufts of grass to pull our selves up. As we rise, we notice that the scrub is thinning, and that the big trees are eucalypts, sure signs that we are passing from the region of moisture on to compara bly dry levels. Near the top we encoun ter an outcrop of silurian rock, with all the slate-like strata verticle. Where the falling stream meets the rock it is diverted at right angles and drops50ft. down a gulch. We surmounted six falls in all, and were not sorry when we came to the upper
most for we found ourselves almost
"played out". Though we started early in the morning, we did not reach the summit till late in the afternoon. At the sixth, or top fall the stream is divided by rocks. It descends for a little distance in two branches which eventually meet in the sas
affras below. Our aneroids indicate that we have seen 1,000ft. since the morning. Be
tween the first fall and the last we jump 700ft. in about one-fifth of a mile, their length being all told.
Our surveyor picks up the old Baw Baw track, by which we descend the sharp
spur dividing the Yarra proper from Falls Creek, and we arrive in camp in an hour.
When the track from Contention Creek to Falls Creek, a distance of about 11 miles,
is reopened, a new and interesting route will be available for tourists to one of the most romantic regions in Victoria, only two days travelling from Melbourne under pre
sent conditions.
AN UPLAND RAMBLE
On a subsequent day we explored the range above our camp. Starting early we
ascended 1,000ft. by the track which had brought us down from the summit of the falls. The upper levels, above the scrub,
were covered with big eucalypts and tall grass. We headedeasterly, and soon got into beech timber, mixed with sassafras. The "forest floors" are carpeted with stiff Cape lomaria ferns, knee high, with fronds of sepia tint, very striking when seen
against the sunlight streaming through the trees. We come to a huge dead eucalypt, with a hollow stem. The temptation to set it on fire is too great for the bushman, who puts a lighted match to a handful of dry ferns. With so much moisture and green wegetation everywhere there is no danger of starting a bush fire. The chimney imme diately began to smoke and roar. Or path is very scrubby and obscure in places,
but the surveyour and bushman, who take the lead in turns, keep to it instintively.
Our travelling is slow-about a mile and a half an hour- through our having to step high over logs. Sometimes we brush through scrub bearing white star flowers, and the vegetable dust shaken off as we pass sets up irritating coughs. In a sunbeam we could distinctly see the dust when the scrub was shaken. The plant is called "choke" bush (Aster stellulatus).
When we are fairly in the beech forest
avenues of magnificent trees open up in every direction. Their stems are bedecked with moss and lichen, and they bear masses of dark green foliage. The track we are on cuts the line from Noojee to Aberfeldy,
one of Whitelaw's early tracks; but we keep our own, passing a signboard on a tree marked "To the Yarra Head". We come to a gumtree ridge, occupied with immense trees, and observe one or two black cocka toos, some gang-gang cockatoos, and a family
of handsome King parrots. The scrub cheifly consists of a dwarf "Christmas" tree,
or Prostanthera. Both flowers and foliage diffuse around a heavy perfume. Then we arrive at a tiny hill and an outcrop of granite, at an altitude of 2,000ft. above sea level. After that we pass through acres
upon acres of fine, tall eucalypts, standing as close together as they can grow, straight stemmed, shooting skyward from 100ft. to 150ft. This wealth of timber is known to extend along the ridge for 10 or 11 miles. Once we are properly in the granite country the vegetation changes to acacias (silver wattle, &c.), pittosporum, native hazel, leatherwood, &c. "Penny"
Creek we so name because we drove a nail through a coin to fasten it to a hazel tree.
At midday, about seven miles from camp, we strike the Yarra again. It is now only five paces wide, and eighteen inches deep,
and it runs leisurely over a sandy bottom sparkling with specks of mica. The source of the stream is only five miles higher up, in a plateau.
We are astonished to find a bridge, a tolerably substantial structure, too. There fore we take a photograph, entitling it the
"Highest Bridge Over The Yarra". At this Altitude (3,120ft. above the sea), our natur-alist finds many interesting plants, includ-ing a white oxalis and a small Alpine lomaria. While photographing and botanising were proceeding, the surveyor pushed along the
"T" track, encountering much fallen tim-ber, and reached the Tanjil track at over 4,000ft. Turning south-west along it, and passing the "14-mile tree", he struck the Yarra for the last time. Here at 3,160ft.,
it is only two paces wide, descending by a depression from the base of Mount Baw Baw, whose rounded crest could be plainly discerned three or four miles away, backed by a great billowy cloud, while above all was the ethereal blue. Following the stream down with difficulty for about two miles, the surveyor reached the bridge where we were, and we all returned to camp, which was reached about 6 o'clock.
The fewness of the birds surprised us. We niether heard nor saw magpies above Walsh Creek, and very few laughing jack-asses. In the beech forest we heard the pretty rose-breasted and pink-breasted robins. We saw a few pairs of flame-breasted robins on the saddles of the range.
A lyre-bird entertained us there, whistling near our camp. We noticed many lyre-bird dancing-grounds in the gullies and in the open scrub among the tall gums. There appear to be no fish in the
streams.
Of plants we made an interesting collec tion, some 300 specimens, representing about half that number of species. A yellow flowering tree, Daviesia, attracted us much on the ridges. Near Walsh Creek we came
across a patch of about five acres of boronia (B. pinnata), with small but sweetly-scented foliage and tiny pinkish flowers. Subse-quently, on our submitting a sample of the shrub to a perfumory chemist, he reported that it yielded enough essential oil to have a commercial value.
We tried to find Hoddle's marked tree, " 1843", near our camp, but failed. Wear and tear for well-nigh threescore years had no doubt obliterated it.
By A. J. CAMPBELL.
REMARKABLE FALLS.
Except to a few surveyors, occasional prospectors, tourists, or opossum-hunters, the region of the Upper Yarra is un-known. Hoddle surveyed the locality in 1843, and in 1890 the Mining department cut a track from Walsh's Creek along the river to Mount Baw Baw. Possibly that is all that has been done officially.
For years I had desired to ascend to the fountain-head of the Yarra, and the chance came recently, when a party of four, con-sisting of a surveyor, a Gippsland bushman, a field naturalist, and a photographer, undertook the trip.
The junction of Walsh Creek with the Yarra, 67 miles from town, is easily reached by rail and coach in one day. We put up at McVeigh's Upper Yarra Hotel, on the direct road to Wood's Point, wher it com mands a view of a fine flat in the fork of the two streams, at an elevation of 1,000 ft.
above sea level.
At 7 a.m. next day we leave McVeigh's, with an addition of two to our party- a pack-horse and his owner. We need the horse to carry a tent and provisions for a week, and the own to look after it. The track leads along the South side of the river, and is high enough to enable us to look down on the stream, bordered with fine ferns, and running swiftly over a rocky bed. Heavily timbered ranges rise from the opposite side. On our side, on a narrow flat, are some whitegums, 200ft., by actual measurement, in height. At half-past 9, several miles from Walsh Creek we reach Contention Creek. Why so-called we could not ascertain. We
unpack our camera to photograph "the highest habitation on the Yarra." There is a gold-mining claim, yielding payable gold.
The occupant of the hut welcomes us with bush hospitality, and the billy is soon on the fire.
After an hours spell, we dive in single
file into the forest. At first the way,al-though overgrown, is tolerably good, but
when we descend into the gullies, and get enveloped in thick scrub, we find the go-ing difficult. Our packhorse, save when bumping his load against a tree, or when grunting loudly on the steep pinches, be-haves splendidly, and mile by mile we move along the mountain sidelings, while the river is heard below, though lost to sight
in thickets. Not only are we getting smothered in timber, but the mountains appear to be converging. On the opposite
side ocasionally a valley densely timbered,
opens, denoting that some tributory comes down to join the main stream. It is re-
freshing to descend, when we get a little warm, into the beds of rivulets, to rest under ferns, protected by groves of sassafras and beech. We slowly but
surely forge our way along through the forest, enlivened by the voices of a few birds-lyre birds, cockatoos, and parrots.
Three snakes are seen but only one is de spatched. We sight a blazed tree on a
steep sideling. "Ah", says the pack horse owner, "this must be where the last party lost their packhorse. They said they blazed the place." We shudder when we gaze down and wonder what we should do should our horse topple over with tent and tucker, and disappear among the vegeta-tion far below. Our experience came on the return journey, when our horse fell twice, and nearly rolled into the river.
Abut 4 o'clock, when getting weary, we break suddenly upon a spledid stream. It is Falls Creek, where we pitch our camp. We endulge in mutual congratula
tions over our safe arrival.
A circular flat is selected for the camp-a most charming and picturesque spot, encl osed by tree ferns, presided over by stout
stemmed beeches. Between tent and stream is just space for a table and a fire-place. Ferny beds are made, and we feel exceedingly happy and snug when enjoying our evening meal. High ranges, clothed with vegetation, wall us in completely. The world is shut out, and we are alone, with the silence broken only by the sound of the running waters, and the rustling of the leaves when they are stirred by wander
ing airs.
The business of next day is to explore
the creek from it's junction with the Yarra to the top of the falls. Where the junc tion occcurs, a hundred yards below our camp, the Yarra comes in seven
paces wide, from the eastward, and the Falls Creek, with one third less volume, from the southeast. Crystalline waters meet on a shingly bed, ferns lending charm to the scene, and we get a lovely picture
for the camera. The height above sea level is approximately 1,770ft. Keeping to the
rocky bed of the stream, which is choked with logs, we gradually ascend. We arrive at a pretty vista, opened up by the fall of trees which have cleared an opening along
the creek bed. On our left is a wall of ve
getation, chiefly beech, gilded on top with sunshine. At 11 a.m., after rounding a bend, and brushing aside overhanging fronds, we catch a sight of the lowest fall. The water descends in a leap of about 70ft.
and spray from it is wafted upon us like
"scotch mist". It needs no small effort
on our part to climb over friable earth and large flat stones to the head of the fall.
Shortly afterwards we catch sight of a second fall. Before we attempt to renew the climbing process we sit down in full view of an interesting scene to lunch.
When again on the move upwards, we find the climbing harder work than ever. It may even be said to be dangerous. As soon as the second fall is conquered, a third
appears, and beyond it a fourth. Perspir ing freely, we climb on, laying hold of rocks, tree stems, and tufts of grass to pull our selves up. As we rise, we notice that the scrub is thinning, and that the big trees are eucalypts, sure signs that we are passing from the region of moisture on to compara bly dry levels. Near the top we encoun ter an outcrop of silurian rock, with all the slate-like strata verticle. Where the falling stream meets the rock it is diverted at right angles and drops50ft. down a gulch. We surmounted six falls in all, and were not sorry when we came to the upper
most for we found ourselves almost
"played out". Though we started early in the morning, we did not reach the summit till late in the afternoon. At the sixth, or top fall the stream is divided by rocks. It descends for a little distance in two branches which eventually meet in the sas
affras below. Our aneroids indicate that we have seen 1,000ft. since the morning. Be
tween the first fall and the last we jump 700ft. in about one-fifth of a mile, their length being all told.
Our surveyor picks up the old Baw Baw track, by which we descend the sharp
spur dividing the Yarra proper from Falls Creek, and we arrive in camp in an hour.
When the track from Contention Creek to Falls Creek, a distance of about 11 miles,
is reopened, a new and interesting route will be available for tourists to one of the most romantic regions in Victoria, only two days travelling from Melbourne under pre
sent conditions.
AN UPLAND RAMBLE
On a subsequent day we explored the range above our camp. Starting early we
ascended 1,000ft. by the track which had brought us down from the summit of the falls. The upper levels, above the scrub,
were covered with big eucalypts and tall grass. We headedeasterly, and soon got into beech timber, mixed with sassafras. The "forest floors" are carpeted with stiff Cape lomaria ferns, knee high, with fronds of sepia tint, very striking when seen
against the sunlight streaming through the trees. We come to a huge dead eucalypt, with a hollow stem. The temptation to set it on fire is too great for the bushman, who puts a lighted match to a handful of dry ferns. With so much moisture and green wegetation everywhere there is no danger of starting a bush fire. The chimney imme diately began to smoke and roar. Or path is very scrubby and obscure in places,
but the surveyour and bushman, who take the lead in turns, keep to it instintively.
Our travelling is slow-about a mile and a half an hour- through our having to step high over logs. Sometimes we brush through scrub bearing white star flowers, and the vegetable dust shaken off as we pass sets up irritating coughs. In a sunbeam we could distinctly see the dust when the scrub was shaken. The plant is called "choke" bush (Aster stellulatus).
When we are fairly in the beech forest
avenues of magnificent trees open up in every direction. Their stems are bedecked with moss and lichen, and they bear masses of dark green foliage. The track we are on cuts the line from Noojee to Aberfeldy,
one of Whitelaw's early tracks; but we keep our own, passing a signboard on a tree marked "To the Yarra Head". We come to a gumtree ridge, occupied with immense trees, and observe one or two black cocka toos, some gang-gang cockatoos, and a family
of handsome King parrots. The scrub cheifly consists of a dwarf "Christmas" tree,
or Prostanthera. Both flowers and foliage diffuse around a heavy perfume. Then we arrive at a tiny hill and an outcrop of granite, at an altitude of 2,000ft. above sea level. After that we pass through acres
upon acres of fine, tall eucalypts, standing as close together as they can grow, straight stemmed, shooting skyward from 100ft. to 150ft. This wealth of timber is known to extend along the ridge for 10 or 11 miles. Once we are properly in the granite country the vegetation changes to acacias (silver wattle, &c.), pittosporum, native hazel, leatherwood, &c. "Penny"
Creek we so name because we drove a nail through a coin to fasten it to a hazel tree.
At midday, about seven miles from camp, we strike the Yarra again. It is now only five paces wide, and eighteen inches deep,
and it runs leisurely over a sandy bottom sparkling with specks of mica. The source of the stream is only five miles higher up, in a plateau.
We are astonished to find a bridge, a tolerably substantial structure, too. There fore we take a photograph, entitling it the
"Highest Bridge Over The Yarra". At this Altitude (3,120ft. above the sea), our natur-alist finds many interesting plants, includ-ing a white oxalis and a small Alpine lomaria. While photographing and botanising were proceeding, the surveyor pushed along the
"T" track, encountering much fallen tim-ber, and reached the Tanjil track at over 4,000ft. Turning south-west along it, and passing the "14-mile tree", he struck the Yarra for the last time. Here at 3,160ft.,
it is only two paces wide, descending by a depression from the base of Mount Baw Baw, whose rounded crest could be plainly discerned three or four miles away, backed by a great billowy cloud, while above all was the ethereal blue. Following the stream down with difficulty for about two miles, the surveyor reached the bridge where we were, and we all returned to camp, which was reached about 6 o'clock.
The fewness of the birds surprised us. We niether heard nor saw magpies above Walsh Creek, and very few laughing jack-asses. In the beech forest we heard the pretty rose-breasted and pink-breasted robins. We saw a few pairs of flame-breasted robins on the saddles of the range.
A lyre-bird entertained us there, whistling near our camp. We noticed many lyre-bird dancing-grounds in the gullies and in the open scrub among the tall gums. There appear to be no fish in the
streams.
Of plants we made an interesting collec tion, some 300 specimens, representing about half that number of species. A yellow flowering tree, Daviesia, attracted us much on the ridges. Near Walsh Creek we came
across a patch of about five acres of boronia (B. pinnata), with small but sweetly-scented foliage and tiny pinkish flowers. Subse-quently, on our submitting a sample of the shrub to a perfumory chemist, he reported that it yielded enough essential oil to have a commercial value.
We tried to find Hoddle's marked tree, " 1843", near our camp, but failed. Wear and tear for well-nigh threescore years had no doubt obliterated it.
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